SAN JUAN COUNTY, NEW MEXICO — In northwestern New Mexico, only a few miles from the turnoff to Chaco Culture National Historical Park along U.S. Highway 550, the pavement gives way to dust — and then Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah.
Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah or “gray salt” in Navajo is a wilderness under the Bureau of Land Management of New Mexico. It is where time, wind, and water had sculpted mushroom-like hoodoos — fantastical shapes defying expectation that appears stretching endlessly across the badlands.
BLM website described it as “a badland area of rolling water-carved clay hills” glowing under the desert sun.
Some places in the wilderness have fragments of petrified palm wood that look like spilling from the hillsides — reminders of a prehistoric landscape about 75 million years ago.
In this wilderness, silence amplifies the drama. And that means no visitor centers. No paved trails. No interpretive signs telling you where to look. Only a vast, open canvas of rock formations.
No trails, no rules — just respect
The easiest way to begin exploring is from the BLM parking area along unpaved New Mexico State Road 57. From there, an old jeep road cuts through sagebrush grassland. Walk about 0.65 miles and the vegetation abruptly falls away, revealing a sculpted landscape of ridges and drainages that looks almost extraterrestrial.
In his article published in Albuquerque Journal, David Ryan wrote, “Because there are no formal trails, just start wandering. There is no wrong way to explore Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah.”
Very appealing is the freedom to explore Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah — but so is responsibility.
Visitors can navigate through dry washes and gullies. They can choose their own paths through the formations where the soil is unpredictable in its fragility.
This is where the drama heightens: A single careless step on a crusted slope can leave scars that will last for years. Climb carefully. Stay aware of your route. A handheld GPS or marked waypoint is a big help to trace your way back to the parking area.
A “leave no trace” rules apply because it is a state-designated wilderness area. No gathering of petrified wood or removing any natural feature. The place is for your eyes only, preserved for the next visitor.
Fast Facts: Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah Wilderness Study Area
Location: San Juan County, northwestern New Mexico, USA
Area: Approximately 6,563 acres (26.56 km²)
Managing agency: Bureau of Land Management
Geologic age: Late Cretaceous period (about 75 million years ago)
Primary features: Hoodoos, fossils, and dramatic badlands terrain
Best time to go
Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah has no water and virtually no shade. Temperatures during summer can be punishing. It is safer to explore the badlands during cooler months — fall, winter, and early spring.
A quick check for weather conditions before heading out is a must. Access roads leading to the area are unpaved and may be difficult or impassable after rain.
Getting there
Drive north on U.S. Highway 550 from Alburquerque. Near the Nageezi chapter house, turn west onto San Juan County Road 7800 between 115 and 116 mile markers.
The road is paved for first four miles and for the remaining stretch is a well-maintained dirt road. CR 7800 ends at NM 57 after 12.4 miles. Turn left and continue 15.5 miles to the BLM parking area.
An important reminder: NM 57 is sandier than CR 7800, and attempting to travel it during inclement weather is discouraged.